10 Things to Do in Alfama

Steep streets, viewpoints, pastel-colored houses, trams, and the melodies of fado: Alfama is Lisbon in miniature, and exploring it means delving into a very authentic area. Keep reading and discover what to see and do in this area of the Portuguese capital.

A good way to get to know Alfama is through a guided tour. You'll discover the oldest neighborhood in the Portuguese capital with an experienced guide who will take you to the main tourist attractions in the area. These urban tours of Lisbon usually last between two and three hours and take in the district's most iconic sights: the Cathedral, the viewpoints, and São Jorge Castle. The tours are available in Spanish and run both in the morning and in the afternoon. They usually depart from somewhere in the neighborhood or from the central Praça do Comércio in Baixa. The price is usually around €15.

If you're short on time, this is the best option. The guides know all the shortcuts and the most interesting historical attractions.

São Jorge Castle dominates the capital from the top of a hill. It was founded in the 8th century when the Muslims controlled much of Portugal. At that time, Lisbon was known as al-Ushbuna and was an important administrative and commercial center. Unfortunately, between the 16th and 18th centuries, it fell into decline due to the numerous earthquakes that struck the country.

Restorations carried out between 1938 and 1944 and in the 1990s have restored the castle to some of its former glory. Today, it is one of the city's most visited monuments and its main attraction is the unparalleled view over Lisbon and the Tagus River. Take some photos and continue your walk to the Castillejo (the old Muslim fortress), the Torre del Homenaje (Torre de Menagem, the largest tower where the royal standard was raised) and the camera obscura, a system of lenses and mirrors that allows you to see the city in 360º and in real time.

As it is located on top of a hill, you will have to climb Rua de Santa Cruz do Castelo, a street that leads to the entrance of the fortress.

The white silhouette of the National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional) stands out above the rooftops of Alfama. From the outside, the monumental entrance and large dome are reminiscent of a church, which was indeed its original use. At the end of the 17th century, the Infanta Maria of Portugal ordered the construction of a temple to house the relics of Saint Engrácia, but less than a century later, a thunderstorm destroyed it. In the 19th century, the Liberal Revolution brought with it the Republic, which designated this place as the most suitable for housing the tombs of illustrious Portuguese figures.

Inside lie the remains of famous figures such as Pedro Álvares Cabral, the fado singer Amália Rodrigues, and Eusébio, the Portuguese soccer legend. Another attraction of the National Pantheon is its large panoramic terrace overlooking the Alfama district. The monument is open Tuesday to Sunday (10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. in summer and 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. in winter) and admission costs around €4.

If you like religious architecture, the Church and Monastery of São Vicente de Fora is about a five-minute walk from the Pantheon. The temple was renovated in the 16th century according to a design by Italian architect Filippo Terzi.

Casa dos Bicos was built in 1523 by Brás de Albuquerque, the son of the Viceroy of India Afonso de Albuquerque. The Portuguese nobleman traveled to Italy and was impressed by Renaissance architecture. On his return to Portugal, he ordered the construction of a residence characterized by the peaks on the façade and the irregular shapes of the doors and windows.

According to experts, it was inspired by the Diamond Palace in Ferrara. The building is located at Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 14, and the name of this street gives us a clue. In the 20th century, the Casa dos Bicos lost its residential function and became a cod warehouse.

Today, it is the headquarters of the José Saramago Foundation and houses a permanent exhibition entitled "A Semente dos Frutos" (The Seed of the Fruit). The collection includes books, original manuscripts, photographs, and other documents related to or that belonged to the writer. The museum is open Monday to Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

If you like archaeology, on the ground floor of the Casa dos Bicos you will find a series of ancient structures: part of the Fernandina wall, Roman-era tanks used for preserving fish, and remains of the Islamic fence.

Lisbon is a city of slopes, hills, and esplanades. No visit would be complete without stopping at the panoramic viewpoints scattered throughout the capital. In the Alfama neighborhood, there are two particularly beautiful and famous viewpoints:

• Portas do Sol viewpoint (Largo Portas do Sol), a balcony overlooking the Church of São Vicente de Fora, the old town, and the waters of the Tagus River. This is possibly the best viewpoint in the city. The famous tram 28 passes by here, which is why it is quite popular with tourists. Even so, it is worth stopping by to enjoy the view and listen to the street musicians.
• A short distance away you will also find the Mirador de Santa Luzia (Largo Santa Luzia). The viewpoint has two floors and is decorated with a roof covered in bougainvillea, columns, and tiles. From here, you can see the churches of São Miguel and Santo Estêvão, the dome of the National Pantheon, and the Alfama neighborhood. The place is frequented by painters and artisans selling their wares.

Mateo's tip

If you are staying near the Portas do Sol viewpoint and don't mind getting up early, I recommend visiting the viewpoint first thing in the morning. It is the best spot to watch the sunrise.

Eating at Cervejaria Ramiro

After a long walk, you'll need to recharge your batteries and sit down for a bite to eat. There's no shortage of options in Alfama, as its narrow streets are home to a number of establishments offering traditional dishes at affordable prices. Read on and discover where it's worth stopping without breaking the bank:

• Cervejaria Ramiro, a neighborhood classic. Despite its name, it is one of the best fish and seafood restaurants in the city. (Avenida Almirante Reis 1)
• Le Petit Café, a restaurant halfway between the cathedral and the castle. Its menu offers a wide selection of fish. If you want to try their specialty, I recommend ordering an octopus dish. (Largo São Martinho)
• O Beco, an establishment known for its bacalhau à Brás. Sit down at one of the tables and enjoy the generous portions (Beco do Espírito Santo 9)
• Almargem, a simple and inexpensive tavern just a stone's throw from the cathedral. (Travessa do Almargem, 4)

If you're looking for a vegetarian restaurant, Princesa do Castelo (Rua do Salvador 64A) serves vegan, vegetarian, and macrobiotic dishes. Another option is The Food Temple on Beco do Jasmim 18.

Every Tuesday and Saturday, Campo de Santa Clara hosts the city's most typical flea market: the Feira da Ladra. As you might guess, in the past it was where stolen goods were sold, but today it is home to a large number of local vendors and artisans. Here you can buy new and used clothing, vinyl records, second-hand books, ceramics, jewelry, tiles, antique cameras, and much more. It's worth strolling among the stalls to pick up an original souvenir. The Feira da Ladra dates back to the Middle Ages and is a must-see in the Portuguese capital.

After shopping, you can relax for a while in the nearby Jardim Botto Machado, a green area much loved by Lisbon locals. Here you will find Clara Clara, a café with a terrace shaded by a hibiscus tree.

The history of pastéis de nata is linked to the history of Lisbon. It all began in 1820, the year of the Liberal Revolution. In that year, the bourgeoisie, dissatisfied with the situation in the country, forced the king to return to Portugal and restore Brazil to colonial status. In this turbulent situation, religious orders began to suffer many closures and the friars of the Jerónimos Monastery (among others) stopped receiving funds. To alleviate the crisis, the monks began to sell egg yolk-based desserts outside the sacred place.

These desserts were so successful that the original recipe was acquired in 1837 by the Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém, one of the best-known establishments in the Portuguese capital.

However, the best pastries can be found in the Alfama district. The Pastelaria Santo António seems to have found the perfect formula for mixing milk, sugar, vanilla, and egg yolks. The pastry shop won the competition for the best cream cake in Lisbon in 2019, promoted by the Peixe em Lisboa food festival.

Mateo's tip

Pastéis de Belém are the perfect gift for family and friends. If you're traveling around Christmas, you can also take home a bolo rainha, the Portuguese version of the king's cake. At the famous Confeitaria Nacional, you'll find a wide assortment of traditional desserts.

In addition to the free tour, another way to explore the neighborhood is by tram 28. To catch this tram, head to Praça Martim Moniz, a square in Baixa. After leaving the flat part of the city, the tram climbs the steep streets of the capital and passes the main monuments of Alfama: the cathedral, the viewpoints, and the castle. The route ends at Campo Ourique station in Bairro Alto. The journey time varies depending on the time of day and traffic. The entire route usually takes around 50 minutes.

A single ticket costs around €2.90. If you plan to take the tram more than once, I recommend buying a day ticket, which costs approximately €6.15. In any case, be careful. As it is frequented by tourists, you may encounter pickpockets.

Alfama is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Lisbon. This is where the authentic Lisboners live, and its narrow streets are the perfect place to listen to fado. Some believe that the genre derives from the melancholic songs of the Muslims after the Christian reconquest, while others believe it comes from the influence of Brazilian music. What is certain is that fado is synonymous with Portugal, and the best bars offering it are in Alfama.

One of these is Parreirinha de Alfama (Beco do Espírito Santo 1), an establishment that owes its fortune to Argentina Santos, one of the most talented singers of her time. In the 1950s, the artist put this bar on the map thanks to her legendary performances and collaborations with singers of the caliber of Berta Cardoso, Alfredo Marceneiro, and Celeste Rodrigues.

Another bar with a long tradition and a good number of positive reviews is Clube de Fado (Rua S. João Praça 86), a historic place just a stone's throw from Lisbon Cathedral. For an even more authentic experience, try A viela do Fado, a tiny venue at Rua dos Remédios 111. If you want to enjoy live music while you eat, I recommend reading the post Dinner with Fado in Lisbon: the best options.

Be careful with the small snacks served by the waiters. They are not included in the price and are charged separately.