10 Things to Do in Alfama

Steep streets, viewpoints, pastel-colored houses, trams, and the melodies of fado: Alfama is Lisbon in miniature, and exploring it means immersing yourself in a truly authentic neighborhood. Keep reading to discover what to see and do in this part of the Portuguese capital

A great way to get to know Alfama is through a guided tour. You’ll discover the oldest neighborhood in the Portuguese capital with an experienced guide who will take you to the area’s main tourist attractions. These urban tours of Lisbon usually last between two and three hours and cover the district’s iconic landmarks: the Cathedral, the viewpoints, and São Jorge Castle. Tours are available in Spanish and run both in the morning and in the afternoon. They usually depart from a location within the neighborhood or from the central Praça do Comércio in Baixa. As for the price, it’s typically around €15.

If you’re short on time, this is the best option. The guides know the shortcuts and the most interesting historical attractions.

São Jorge Castle overlooks the capital from the top of a hill. Its foundation dates back to the 8th century when the Muslims controlled much of Portugal. At that time, Lisbon was known as al-Ushbuna and was an important administrative and commercial center. Unfortunately, between the 16th and 18th centuries, it fell into decline due to the numerous earthquakes that struck the country.

Renovations carried out between 1938 and 1944 and in the 1990s have restored some of the castle’s former glory. Today, it is one of the city’s most visited monuments, and its main attraction is the unparalleled view of Lisbon and the Tagus River. Take some photos and continue your walk to the Castillejo (the old Muslim citadel), the Keep (Torre de Menagem, the largest tower where the royal standard was raised), and the camera obscura, a system of lenses and mirrors that offers a 360-degree, real-time view of the city.

Since it’s located at the top of a hill, you’ll need to walk up Rua de Santa Cruz do Castelo, a street that leads to the fortress entrance.

The white silhouette of the Lisbon National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional) rises above the rooftops of Alfama. From the outside, the monumental entrance and the large dome resemble a church, and indeed, this was its original purpose. In the late 17th century, Infanta Maria of Portugal ordered the construction of a temple to house the relics of Saint Engracia, but less than a century later, a thunderstorm destroyed it. In the 19th century, the Liberal Revolution ushered in the Republic, which designated this site as the most suitable place to house the tombs of illustrious Portuguese figures.

Inside rest figures such as Pedro Álvares Cabral, the fado singer Amália Rodrigues, and Eusébio, the Portuguese soccer legend. Another attraction of the National Pantheon is its large panoramic terrace overlooking the Alfama neighborhood. The monument is open Tuesday through Sunday (from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. in summer and from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. in winter), and admission costs around €4.

If you enjoy religious architecture, the Church and Monastery of São Vicente de Fora stands about a five-minute walk from the Pantheon. The church was renovated in the 16th century according to a design by the Italian architect Filippo Terzi.

Casa dos Bicos was built in 1523 by Brás de Albuquerque, the son of the Viceroy of India, Afonso de Albuquerque. The Portuguese nobleman traveled to Italy and was struck by Renaissance architecture. Upon his return to Portugal, he commissioned the construction of a residence characterized by the peaks on the façade and the irregular shapes of its doors and windows.

According to experts, it was inspired by the Palazzo dei Diamanti in Ferrara. The building is located at Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 14, and the name of this street gives us a clue. In the 20th century, Casa dos Bicos had lost its residential function and had become a cod warehouse.

Today, it serves as the headquarters of the José Saramago Foundation and houses a permanent exhibition titled “A Semente dos Frutos.” The collection includes books, original manuscripts, photographs, and other documents linked to or once belonging to the writer. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

If you’re interested in archaeology, the ground floor of Casa dos Bicos features a series of ancient structures: a section of the Fernandine Wall, Roman-era tanks used for preserving fish, and remains of the Islamic wall.

Lisbon is a city of slopes, hills, and esplanades. No visit is complete without a stop at the panoramic viewpoints scattered throughout the capital. In the Alfama neighborhood, there are essentially two of the most beautiful and famous viewpoints:

• Portas do Sol Viewpoint (Largo Portas do Sol), a balcony overlooking the Church of São Vicente de Fora, the Old Town, and the waters of the Tagus. It is arguably the best viewpoint in the city. The famous Tram 28 passes through here, which is why it is quite popular with tourists. Even so, it’s worth stopping by to enjoy the view and listen to the street musicians.
• A short distance away, you’ll also find the Mirador de Santa Luzia (Largo Santa Luzia). The viewpoint consists of two levels and features a roof covered in climbing bougainvillea, columns, and tiles. From here, you can see the churches of São Miguel and São Estêvão, the dome of the National Pantheon, and the Alfama neighborhood. The spot is frequented by painters and artisans selling their wares.

Mateo’s tip

If you’re staying near the Portas do Sol Viewpoint and don’t mind getting up early, I recommend visiting the viewpoint first thing in the morning. It’s the best spot to watch the sunrise.

After a long walk, it’s time to recharge and sit down for a bite to eat. Alfama has no shortage of options, as its narrow streets hide establishments offering traditional dishes at affordable prices. Keep reading to discover where it’s worth stopping without breaking the bank:

• Cervejaria Ramiro, a neighborhood classic. Despite its name, it’s one of the best seafood restaurants in the city. (Avenida Almirante Reis 1)
• Le Petit Café, a restaurant halfway between the cathedral and the castle. Its menu offers a wide selection of fish. If you want to try their specialty, I recommend ordering an octopus dish. (Largo São Martinho)
• O Beco, a spot known for its bacalhau à Brás. Take a seat at one of their tables and enjoy the generous portions (Beco do Espírito Santo 9)
• Almargem, a simple and inexpensive tavern just a stone’s throw from the cathedral. (Travessa do Almargem, 4)

If you’re looking for a vegetarian restaurant, Princesa do Castelo (Rua do Salvador 64A) serves vegan, vegetarian, and macrobiotic dishes. Another option is The Food Temple at Beco do Jasmim 18.

Every Tuesday and Saturday, Campo de Santa Clara hosts the city’s most iconic flea market: the Feira da Ladra. As you might guess, in the past this was where stolen goods were sold, while today it’s home to a large number of local vendors and artisans. Here you can buy new and used clothing, vinyl records, secondhand books, ceramics, jewelry, tiles, vintage cameras, and much more. It’s worth strolling among the stalls to pick up a unique souvenir. The origins of the Feira da Ladra date back to the Middle Ages, and it’s a must-see in the Portuguese capital.

After some shopping, you can take a break at the nearby Jardim Botto Machado, a green space much loved by Lisbon locals. Here you’ll find Clara Clara, a café with a terrace shaded by a hibiscus tree.

The history of pastéis de nata is intertwined with the history of Lisbon. It all began in 1820, the year of the Liberal Revolution. That year, the bourgeoisie, dissatisfied with the state of the country, forced the king to return to Portugal and restore Brazil to colonial status. In this turbulent situation, religious orders began to face numerous closures, and the friars of the Jerónimos Monastery (among others) stopped receiving funds. To alleviate the crisis, the monks began selling egg-yolk-based desserts outside the sacred site.

These desserts were so successful that the original recipe was acquired in 1837 by the Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém, one of the most famous establishments in the Portuguese capital.

However, the best pastries can be found in the Alfama neighborhood. The Pastelaria Santo António seems to have found the perfect formula for mixing milk, sugar, vanilla, and egg yolks. The pastry shop won the contest for the best pastéis de nata in Lisbon in 2019, organized by the Peixe em Lisboa food festival.

Mateo’s tip

Pastéis de Belém make the perfect gift for family and friends. If you’re traveling around Christmas, you can also bring home a bolo rainha, the Portuguese version of the King’s Cake. At the famous Confeitaria Nacional, you’ll find a wide selection of traditional desserts.

In addition to the free tour, another way to explore the neighborhood is by taking tram 28. To catch this mode of transportation, head to Praça Martim Moniz, a square in the Baixa district. After leaving the flat part of the city, the tram climbs the steep streets of the capital and passes by Alfama’s main landmarks: the cathedral, the viewpoints, and the castle. The route ends at the Campo Ourique station in Bairro Alto. As for the duration, it can vary depending on the time of day and traffic. Normally, the full route takes about 50 minutes.

A single ticket costs around €2.90. If you plan to take it more than once, I recommend getting a day pass, which costs approximately €6.15. In any case, be careful. Since it’s popular with tourists, you might encounter a pickpocket.

Alfama is one of Lisbon’s oldest neighborhoods. This is where the true Lisboners live, and its narrow streets are the favorite spot to listen to fado. Some believe the genre stems from the melancholic songs of Muslims after the Christian reconquest; others think it comes from influences of Brazilian music. What is certain is that fado is synonymous with Portugal, and the best bars featuring it are found in Alfama.

One of these is Parreirinha de Alfama (Beco do Espírito Santo 1), an establishment that owes its success to Argentina Santos, one of the most talented singers of her time. In the 1950s, the artist put this bar on the map thanks to her legendary performances and collaborations with singers of the caliber of Berta Cardoso, Alfredo Marceneiro, and Celeste Rodrigues.

Another bar with a long tradition and plenty of positive reviews is Clube de Fado (Rua S. João Praça 86), a historic spot just a stone’s throw from Lisbon Cathedral. For an even more authentic experience, you can opt for A Viela do Fado, a tiny spot at Rua dos Remédios 111. If you want to dine while enjoying live music, I recommend reading the post Dinner with Fado in Lisbon: the best options.

Be careful with the small snacks served by the waitstaff. They are not included in the price and are charged separately.